Bed Bug Stains and Droppings — What Bed Bug Poop Actually Looks Like, and the Five Marks It Gets Confused With

You found a mark and now you cannot stop looking at it. Bed bug droppings are digested blood, which is why one specific test settles it in about ten seconds — and why the marks appear where the bugs rest, not where they bite.

Updated July 2026

Quick Answer

Bed bug droppings are digested blood excreted as a liquid, so they dry into clusters of black or very dark brown dots about the size of a ballpoint pen tip. On fabric the liquid wicks out before it dries, so the edges look bled and feathered like felt-marker ink; on wood or metal the same droplet dries into a small raised glossy speck. The test that settles it: dab the edge with a damp white cloth — a bed bug faecal spot smears rusty reddish-brown. Dried blood stays redder and flakes, mould has texture and no discrete dots, cockroach frass is dry pepper that will not smear at all. Look in mattress seams and piping, the box spring underside, and the back of the headboard — bed bugs defecate at the harbourage, so the densest staining marks where they live.

  • Clusters, not singles. One isolated black dot on a duvet is rarely bed bugs; a patch of twenty in a mattress seam usually is.
  • The stain is a map. The densest patch is the harbourage — that is where any treatment has to be aimed.
  • Rust-coloured smears are blood, from a crushed fed bug or a scratched bite — a different sign from the black dots.
  • Photograph before you clean. Washing the mattress destroys the only map you have.
  • Do not buy a spray on stain evidence alone. Confirm with interceptor traps first — spraying an unconfirmed population scatters it.
  • Renting in Ontario? Report it in writing before you spend a dollar of your own money.

— BuzzSkito Pest Product Guides · independent Canadian research

Two pages, two jobs

This page is the evidence — you have already found a mark and you want to know what it is, what it is not, and what it tells you about where the bugs are.If you have found nothing yet and want the search itself — the full five-sign inspection, the five-minute hotel-room routine, the used-furniture rule and a GTA apartment move-in checklist — read how to check for bed bugs in Canada. And if the evidence here checks out, the treatment plan lives in how to get rid of bed bugs in Canada.

A note on who we are: BuzzSkito is a GTA mosquito & tick control service — we don’t treat bed bugs. This guide is independent product research from our publishing team for Canadian homeowners, focused on what’s actually available and PMRA-legal in Canada.

Decision Table

What You Found → What It Probably Is → What to Do

The single most expensive mistake at this stage is buying a spray before you know what you are looking at. Find your row.

What you foundMost likelyDo thisGet it
A cluster of pen-tip black dots in the mattress piping, bleeding into the fabricBed bug faecal spottingPhotograph it, do not clean it, search within a few centimetres for a live bug or cast skin, then set interceptorsInterceptor traps →
One or two red-brown smears on a sheet, nothing in the seamsBlood — a scratched bite, a nosebleed, or a crushed bugNot conclusive. Strip the bed and inspect the seams and box spring properly before buying anythingFree — a flashlight and ten minutes
Diffuse grey-green patches with a musty smell on a stored mattressMould or mildew, not an insectA humidity problem. Dry the space rather than treating for pests — sizing matters more than brandDehumidifier sizing guide →
Dry pepper-like specks in a kitchen or bathroom, will not smearCockroach droppingsCompletely different plan — enclosed bait stations and sanitation, not a mattress inspection. The professional gels American guides name are commercial-class here; check any pesticide for a Canadian PCP registration numberCanadian roach plan →
Confirmed spotting, and you want it contained tonightAn established harbourage in the mattress or box springA zippered encasement seals the harbourage in and makes any new staining unmistakably newEncasement →
Heavy old staining you need to clean up safelyA long-running infestation, plus dust you should not aerosoliseVacuum with a sealed HEPA path and empty the canister outdoors immediatelySealed HEPA vacuum →

Our Picks — What to Buy After You Find Staining

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🏆 Buy This First

Bed Bug Interceptor Traps (Under Each Bed Leg)

The cheapest way to turn a suspicious stain into a definite answer. Interceptor cups sit under each bed leg and exploit a physical limitation — bed bugs climb the textured outer wall easily and cannot climb the smooth inner one — so anything travelling to or from the bed ends up held in a well where you can see it. Run them for two full weeks with someone sleeping in the bed nightly.

Pros

  • Converts suspicion into proof without guessing
  • Also tells you whether bugs are coming from the bed or the room
  • Keeps working as a monitor after treatment

Cons

  • Needs a bed pulled away from walls and bedding off the floor to work
  • Two weeks of patience, not an instant answer
Best for a Wider Sweep

Passive Glue-Strip Monitors

Interceptors only watch the bed legs. Flat adhesive monitors tucked along the baseboard behind the headboard, under a bedside table, and inside the seams of a nearby upholstered chair widen the net to the rest of the room — useful when the staining is on the frame or the wall rather than the mattress, which suggests the harbourage has moved outward.

Pros

  • Covers harbourage away from the bed itself
  • Cheap enough to place a dozen
  • No chemicals — fine in a child’s room

Cons

  • A monitor, never a control measure
  • Adhesive fails in dusty rooms
Best Once Confirmed

Zippered Mattress and Box Spring Encasements

The stained mattress is usually the harbourage itself. A bed-bug-rated encasement with a sealing zipper traps whatever is inside, denies the surface to anything outside, and — the part nobody mentions — gives you a clean light-coloured surface, so any new spotting after treatment is unambiguously new rather than something you have been staring at for a month.

Pros

  • Turns the biggest harbourage into a sealed box
  • Creates a clean baseline for judging whether treatment worked
  • Saves a mattress you would otherwise replace

Cons

  • Must stay on for a long time — do not open it early
  • Cheap ones split at the zipper end; buy a bed-bug-rated one
Best for Cleanup

Sealed-HEPA Vacuum (Bagged)

Heavy old staining comes with shed skins and dried faecal dust, and an ordinary vacuum with a leaky path exhausts that fine material straight back into the bedroom air. A bagged vacuum with a genuinely sealed HEPA path lifts the debris and keeps it contained — bag it and bin it outdoors the moment you finish.

Pros

  • Removes debris without aerosolising it
  • Physically removes bugs and eggs from seams and crevices
  • Useful long after the bed bug problem is over

Cons

  • The premium purchase here — not needed for a small early find
  • A vacuum alone never clears an infestation

Which one should you buy?

Found a stain and nothing else? Buy only the Buy This First interceptors and wait two weeks — a definite answer is worth more right now than any treatment. Staining on the frame, wall or a nearby chair rather than the mattress? Add the Best for a Wider Sweep monitors, because the harbourage has moved off the bed. Confirmed and starting treatment? The Best Once Confirmed encasement is the first thing to buy, and our encasement buying guide covers what separates a bed-bug-rated one from a dust-mite cover. Cleaning up a long-running mess? The Best for Cleanup sealed vacuum is the right tool — details in our sealed-HEPA vacuum guide.

The Differential · Updated July 2026

Bed Bug Droppings vs the Five Marks People Confuse Them With

Every row below has sent someone to a hardware store for a spray they did not need, or has been dismissed as nothing by someone who did. The damp-swab test in the third column separates them faster than any photograph comparison.

MarkWhat it looks likeDamp-swab testWhere you find itWhat it means
Bed bug faecal spotClustered black or very dark brown dots, pen-tip sized. Bled and feathered on fabric; raised and glossy on wood or metalSmears rusty reddish-brownMattress seams and piping, box spring gauze, headboard back, frame joints, screw holesHarbourage is right there
Dried bloodRedder brown, sits on the surface, often an elongated smear rather than a dotFlakes rather than bleeding outSheets, pillowcase, pyjamas — wherever you moved in the nightA scratched bite, a nosebleed, or a crushed fed bug
Mould / mildewDiffuse grey, green or black patches with visible texture. Usually a musty smellDoes not smear or dissolveMattresses stored in damp basements or against a cold exterior wallA humidity problem — dry the room, not the pest aisle
Cockroach droppingsDry black specks like coarse pepper, or small ridged cylindrical pellets from larger speciesDry — will not smear at allKitchen and bathroom — behind appliances, in cupboard corners, along pipe runsA different pest and a different plan entirely
Carpet beetle evidenceNo black spotting. Instead: bristly larvae, shed skins, and grazed patches on wool or a fur-trimmed coatNothing to smearClosets, under furniture, along carpet edges, in stored woollensThe most common bed bug misidentification — damages fabric, does not bite
Transferred ink, dye or newsprintUsually one mark, not a cluster. Often a recognisable shape or a lineSmears its own colour — blue, black, never rustAnywhere on bedding; almost never inside a seamLaundry, not pest control

The one detail that decides most cases: location plus clustering. Bed bugs excrete where they rest, so their staining accumulates in tight, sheltered, seam-like places in dense patches. A single black dot in the middle of a duvet, with clean seams and a clean box spring, is very rarely a bed bug. Twenty dots along ten centimetres of mattress piping almost always is.

Bed Bug Staining — Quick Reference

What the black spots areDigested blood — excreted as a liquid, dried in place
Size and colourRoughly a ballpoint-pen-tip dot, black to very dark brown
On fabricWicks outward before drying — feathered, bled edges like felt marker
On wood or metalNothing absorbs it — a small raised, glossy speck you can feel
The confirming testDamp white cloth on the edge of the mark → rusty reddish-brown smear
Pattern that mattersClusters, in sheltered seam-like places — not isolated dots on open fabric
First place to lookMattress piping and seams, especially corners and the head end
Second and thirdBox spring top edge and the gauze stapled underneath; the back of the headboard
Then work outwardFrame joints and screw holes, slat rails, baseboard behind the bed, nearby upholstered seams
What density tells youWhere the harbourage is, and roughly how long it has been there — never a bug count
Rust-coloured smearsBlood, not droppings — a crushed fed bug or a scratched bite
Before you cleanPhotograph it. Cleaning destroys the map that aims the treatment
Washing beddingCold pre-treat (hot water sets blood), then wash and dry on high heat
What to buy on stain evidence aloneInterceptor traps. Not a spray
Health riskBed bugs are not known to transmit disease; heavy old debris matters for asthma and allergies
Renting in OntarioReport in writing first — pest control generally sits with the landlord’s maintenance obligations

By Alex and The Mosquito Team

BuzzSkito Mosquito & Tick Control Specialists · Published July 30, 2026

What the Stain Actually Is

A bed bug feeds on blood and digests it, and what comes out the other end is mostly the leftover, broken-down remains of that blood. It is excreted as a liquid droplet, not a solid pellet, and that single fact explains every visual property people find confusing.

On an absorbent surface — a cotton sheet, the fabric piping around a mattress, the gauze under a box spring, an upholstered headboard — the droplet spreads into the weave before it dries. That is why bed bug spots look bled: soft, feathered edges, exactly like touching the fabric with the tip of a felt marker. On a non-absorbent surface — a lacquered bed frame, a metal slat, painted baseboard trim, the plastic of an outlet cover — there is nowhere for the liquid to go, so it dries on top as a small, slightly raised, faintly glossy black speck. Run a fingernail across one and you can feel it. Same insect, same material, two completely different-looking marks, which is why a photo you found online may not match what is in front of you.

The colour is the giveaway and the reason the swab test works. The material is haem-derived, so when you rehydrate it, it releases the rusty reddish-brown that gives every bed bug guide its identical piece of advice: dab a damp white cloth or wet cotton swab on the edge of the mark. Bed bug faeces smear reddish-brown into white cotton. Cockroach frass, which is dry and solid, does not smear. Mould has texture and no discrete dots. Ink smears its own colour. Dried blood is redder and flakes off rather than bleeding out. Test the edge rather than the centre, so you keep an intact example if a professional needs to look at it later.

As an Amazon Associate, BuzzSkito earns from qualifying purchases. BuzzSkito only points to products we would genuinely use or recommend, at no extra cost to you.

If the evidence checks out, this is the short list worth checking:

Where the Stains Appear, and Why It Is Not Your Sheets

Here is the behavioural fact that makes the staining useful rather than merely alarming: bed bugs do not defecate where they feed. They defecate where they rest. A bug feeds for a few minutes, retreats to a tight dark space, and then digests over the following days — which is where the spotting accumulates. That converts a distressing mark into a map, because the densest patch of staining is, quite literally, the address.

Search in this order, with a flashlight held at a low raking angle so the light throws shadows across the surface rather than washing it out:

  • Mattress piping and seams, running the whole perimeter, with extra time at the four corners and the head end. Peel the piping back gently with a card.
  • The box spring — the top edge first, then tip it on its side and look at the wooden frame and the stapled gauze fabric underneath. The underside of a box spring is one of the most consistently productive places to find evidence in a Canadian bedroom and the one people skip most.
  • The headboard, particularly the back face and any mounting bracket, which is dark, tight, and never disturbed.
  • The bed frame: joints, bolt holes, screw holes, the inside faces of slat rails, and the underside of any wooden ledge.
  • Outward from the bed, once the above is done: the baseboard directly behind the head of the bed, the seam where carpet meets wall, the underside of a bedside table, the seams and skirt of an upholstered chair within a few metres, and the edge of a wall outlet plate.

Sheet staining tends to come later than seam staining, because it requires a population large enough that bugs are resting on bedding rather than only in cracks. If your sheets are marked and the seams are not, look harder at the seams — it is far more likely you missed it than that the insects reversed their behaviour.

What the Pattern Tells You (and What It Cannot)

Two honest statements, in tension with each other. Staining is the best free diagnostic in this entire subject, and it will not tell you how many bugs you have.

What it does tell you is where and roughly how long. Spotting confined to one corner of a mattress seam, with a clean box spring and a clean frame, is the pattern of something recent and localised — typically a single introduction that has not yet expanded. Spotting that appears on the box spring gauze, the back of the headboard, the frame joints, and the baseboard behind the bed describes a population that has outgrown its first harbourage and colonised the room. That distinction is genuinely useful, because it changes the scope of what has to be treated: the first case may be resolved around the bed, and the second is a whole-room job where a professional heat treatment is often the cheaper route once you count what a long DIY campaign actually costs in time, repeat purchases, and failed attempts.

What no stain pattern gives you is a count, an age in weeks, or a prediction. Be sceptical of any source — or any quote — that converts a photograph of spotting into a number. If you want a real measurement rather than an estimate, that is exactly what interceptor traps under the bed legs provide, over the following fortnight, for a small amount of money.

The Other Evidence Sitting Next to the Stains

Once you have found spotting, spend another five minutes in the same few centimetres, because the confirming evidence is almost always adjacent to it. You are looking for translucent, bug-shaped shells — bed bugs moult on their way to adulthood and leave the empty casings behind, which is why finding shells in several different sizes tells you the population is breeding rather than a lone hitchhiker. You are also looking for eggs: roughly a millimetre long, pearly white, glued into a crack or seam fold, usually in small clusters and easy to miss without raking light.

And one thing that is not evidence, no matter how convincing it feels: bites. Skin reactions to bed bug bites vary enormously between people, several other insects produce a similar-looking mark, and some people show no reaction at all — so a bite pattern can neither confirm nor rule out an infestation. Our guide to what bed bug bites look like covers why, and tick vs bed bug handles the other insect that most often gets blamed. If you have bites and no physical evidence anywhere, the honest position is that you do not know yet — and interceptors, not a spray, are what resolve it.

Do Not Clean It Yet

The strongest instinct on finding this is to scrub, and it is the wrong first move. Cleaning the mattress destroys the map that tells you and any professional where the harbourage is, and it does nothing at all to the insects, which are inside the seam rather than on it.

Do this instead. Photograph it — close, well-lit, with something for scale, and a second wider shot showing where on the bed it is. If you rent, those photos are the evidence that starts the process with your landlord or property manager. Then leave it. Once treatment is underway or complete, fit a light-coloured, bed-bug-rated zippered encasement over both the mattress and the box spring. That does three jobs at once: it seals whatever is still inside where it cannot reach you, it denies the surface to anything outside, and it gives you a clean pale baseline — so any new spot that shows up afterwards is unambiguously new, rather than a mark you have been anxiously re-examining for six weeks.

For washable bedding, the sequence is: cold-water pre-treatment first, because hot water sets a blood-based stain, then wash, then dry on high heat for at least 30 minutes. The dryer is doing real pest control there, not just laundry — sustained high heat is lethal to bed bugs at every life stage, which is why it appears in every credible protocol.

What Not to Buy at This Stage

Restraint here is worth more than any product on the page:

  • A contact spray, before confirmation. This is the classic and costly mistake. Spraying an unconfirmed population scatters it out of a known harbourage and deeper into the room, which makes both a DIY campaign and a later professional treatment harder. Confirm first. Our honest assessment of what sprays can and cannot do is in do bed bug sprays actually work.
  • A total-release fogger or bug bomb. An aerosol that settles on open surfaces cannot reach into a mattress seam, a box spring frame, or a screw hole — the exact places the staining is telling you the bugs are.
  • Ultrasonic plug-in repellers. No credible evidence for this or any household pest; see our ultrasonic repeller review.
  • Throwing out the mattress on the strength of a stain. Expensive, and frequently counterproductive — an infestation is rarely confined to the mattress, a discarded one can spread the problem through a building’s hallways, and an encasement usually saves it. Decide after confirmation, not during panic.
  • Grey-market US pesticides. Several products American guides recommend are not registered for sale or use in Canada. Any pesticide you use here should carry a PCP registration number on its Canadian label, and the pest and use site both have to be listed on it. Our Canadian bed bug spray guide covers what is legally sold here.

When a Professional Is the Cheaper Answer

BuzzSkito treats mosquitoes and ticks — we do not sell bed bug service, and we have no referral to place, which is why we can say this plainly. A localised early find around a single bed is a reasonable DIY job with encasements, interceptors, heat, and patience. A whole-room stain map — box spring, headboard, frame, baseboard, nearby furniture — usually is not, and the honest arithmetic favours hiring someone: a professional heat treatment or a properly executed chemical programme done once tends to cost less than three rounds of DIY products, several months of poor sleep, and a failed attempt that has scattered the population.

Call a professional straight away in three situations regardless of stain density: you live in an apartment or condo, where an untreated neighbouring unit will keep reintroducing the problem no matter what you do in yours; the affected person is elderly, immunocompromised, or a young child; or you have already treated once and the staining is expanding. If you rent in Ontario, report the evidence in writing before you spend anything of your own — pest control in a rental generally falls within a landlord’s maintenance obligations, and your photographs and the date you sent them are the record that matters. Our apartment and condo bed bug guide covers the multi-unit case, and what pest control costs in Canada lets you sanity-check a quote.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does bed bug poop look like?+

Like someone touched the fabric with a fine black or very dark brown felt marker. Bed bug droppings are digested blood, and they come out as a liquid that dries into a spot roughly the size of a ballpoint pen tip. On absorbent fabric — a sheet, a mattress seam, a fabric headboard — the liquid wicks outward before it dries, so the edges look feathered and bled rather than sharp. On a hard surface such as a wooden bed frame, a metal slat, or painted trim, there is nothing to absorb it, so the same droplet dries into a slightly raised, glossy black speck you can feel with a fingernail. They almost always appear in clusters rather than singly, because bed bugs defecate where they rest, not where they feed.

How do I test whether a black spot is bed bug droppings?+

Dab it with a damp white cloth or a wet cotton swab and watch what happens. A bed bug faecal spot rehydrates and smears a rusty reddish-brown into the cloth, because it is digested blood — that colour, on a white cloth, is the single most useful confirmation available to a homeowner. Dried human blood on a sheet tends to stay a darker red-brown, sits on the fabric surface rather than bleeding into it, and flakes rather than smears. Mould and mildew do not smear at all: they have texture, spread in a diffuse patch rather than discrete dots, and usually come with a musty smell. Do the test on the edge of a mark rather than the middle so you preserve some of it for a professional to look at.

Where do bed bug stains show up first?+

At the harbourage, not on your sheets — which is why the sheet is the last place to look and the first place people check. Start with the piping and seams of the mattress, especially the corners and the head end; then the top edge and underside of the box spring, including the gauze fabric stapled underneath; then the back and underside of the headboard and the joints and screw holes of the bed frame. After that, work outward: the seam where the bed frame meets a wall, the underside of slat rails, the baseboard directly behind the bed, and the seams of any upholstered chair within a few metres of where someone sleeps. Stains on bedding come later and mean the population is already established.

Is a stain on its own enough to confirm bed bugs?+

It is strong evidence, not proof, and the difference matters because the response is expensive. A cluster of pen-tip black spots in a mattress seam that smear rusty on a damp swab is about as close as circumstantial evidence gets, and most Canadian households that find that pattern do have bed bugs. What converts it to certainty is a live bug, a cast skin, or an egg — all of which usually turn up within a few centimetres of the staining once you know exactly where to look with a flashlight held at a low angle. If you cannot find one, interceptor traps under the bed legs are the cheap way to convert suspicion into proof over the following couple of weeks rather than guessing and spending.

What else leaves black spots that look like bed bug droppings?+

Five things, most of the time. Dried blood from a scratched bite or a nosebleed, which stays redder and flakes instead of smearing. Mould or mildew on a mattress stored in a damp basement, which is diffuse and textured and smells. Cockroach droppings, which are dry pepper-like specks or small ridged pellets that do not dissolve or smear, and which appear in kitchens and bathrooms rather than on a mattress seam. Carpet beetle evidence, which is the most common bed bug misidentification of all and leaves no black spotting whatsoever — bristly larvae, shed skins, and grazed patches on wool or a fur-trimmed coat, in closets and along carpet edges rather than in a mattress seam. And transferred ink, mascara, hair dye, or newsprint, which is usually a single mark rather than a cluster and is almost never inside a seam. The clustering, the location, and the rusty smear are what separate bed bug staining from all of them. Ordinary body-oil and sweat staining on an older mattress gets flagged too, but it is a broad yellow-brown wash of colour rather than discrete dots, so it rarely survives a close look.

Do bed bug stains tell me how bad the infestation is?+

They tell you where it is, and roughly how long it has been there, without giving you a headcount. Faecal spotting accumulates only at a harbourage, so the densest patch of staining is where the bugs actually live — which is the most useful piece of information on this page, because it is where treatment has to be aimed. Spotting that is confined to one mattress corner suggests something recent and localised, typically a single introduction. Spotting that has spread to the box spring gauze, the headboard back, the frame joints, and the baseboard behind the bed means the population has outgrown the original harbourage. Nobody can convert a stain pattern into a number of bugs, and you should be sceptical of anyone who offers to.

Can bed bug stains be washed out of sheets and a mattress?+

From washable bedding, usually yes: cold-water pre-treatment first, because hot water can set a blood-based stain, then wash and dry on high heat — the dryer cycle does double duty, since sustained high heat is lethal to bed bugs at every life stage. On a mattress, treat the stain as evidence rather than laundry. Cleaning it removes the map you need, and no amount of scrubbing addresses the insects. The better sequence is to photograph the staining, treat the infestation, then fit a light-coloured zippered encasement over the mattress and box spring — which seals in anything left, gives you a clean surface, and makes any new spotting unmistakably new.

What are the rust-coloured smears on my sheets, as opposed to black dots?+

Those are usually blood rather than droppings, and they have two ordinary explanations. Either you rolled onto a bug that had recently fed and crushed it, or you scratched a bite while asleep and it bled a little. Smears from a crushed bug tend to be elongated in the direction of movement and can appear anywhere you moved in the night; scratch bleeding sits where the bite is. Neither is proof on its own — a nosebleed, a shaving cut, or a healing scab produces the same mark — but blood smears combined with clustered black spotting in the mattress seams is a strong pairing, and it usually means the harbourage is within arm’s reach of where your shoulders lie.

Are bed bug droppings dangerous or a health risk?+

Bed bugs are not known to transmit disease to people, and Canadian public-health guidance consistently frames them as a nuisance and a mental-health burden rather than an infectious risk. That said, the shed skins and dried faecal material of a large, long-running infestation become part of household dust, and that can matter for people with asthma or allergies. Handle it sensibly rather than fearfully: wear gloves if you are cleaning heavy staining, use a vacuum with a sealed HEPA path rather than an ordinary one that exhausts fine dust back into the room, and empty or bag the canister outdoors immediately. The bigger harms of a bed bug problem are the lost sleep and the money, not the spots.

I found stains but no bugs. What should I actually buy?+

Interceptor traps, and nothing else yet. Cups placed under each bed leg intercept bugs travelling to and from the bed, and over a couple of weeks they convert "I think I found something" into a definite answer for a modest outlay. Buying a spray at this stage is the most common and most expensive mistake in the whole cluster: it scatters an unconfirmed population deeper into the room, it burns money on a problem you may not have, and it makes a later professional treatment harder. If the traps catch nothing over two full weeks with someone sleeping in the bed every night, you probably have something else — go back to the stain differential and look again at mould, dried blood, and cockroach frass.

I rent in Ontario and found bed bug stains — what should I do first?+

Report it in writing before you spend anything, and keep the record. Pest control in a rental unit generally falls under a landlord’s maintenance obligations in Ontario, so an email or letter that documents the date you found the evidence, what you found, and where, is worth more than any product you could buy that afternoon. Photograph the staining before you clean anything. Do not start a DIY chemical treatment on your own: in multi-unit housing an untreated neighbouring unit will simply reintroduce the problem, and self-treatment can complicate the professional treatment the building eventually schedules. What is worth buying yourself is a mattress and box spring encasement and a set of interceptor traps, both of which help the professional job succeed and both of which you keep.

Related Bed Bug Guides

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