BuzzSkito Mosquito & Tick Control Specialists · Published July 21, 2026
First, Confirm What Is Actually in That Hole
Late summer is when Canadians discover ground nests the hard way, so start with a 60-second identification from a safe distance. Watch the hole from 4–5 metres for a minute in daylight. A yellow jacket nest announces itself unmistakably: a steady, two-way stream of sleek, bright black-and-yellow wasps entering and leaving one hole, often a former rodent burrow at the edge of a garden bed, under a shrub, or in open lawn. By August that traffic can be several wasps per second, because eastern and common yellowjacket colonies in southern Canada routinely grow to hundreds — and late in the season, several thousand — workers.
Two look-alikes matter because they should be left alone. Solitary ground-nesting bees (fuzzy, often smaller, active in spring) and digger wasps or cicada killers (large but non-aggressive, active mid-summer) make scattered individual holes across dry, sandy soil — one insect per hole, no traffic jam, almost no sting risk, and genuine pollination and pest-predation value. Dozens of little holes with the occasional insect is a leave-it-alone situation. One busy hole with constant traffic is a yellow jacket colony, and the rest of this guide is about that. A third look-alike works wood instead of soil: if the insect is hovering at a fascia board or deck rail and leaving a clean round hole, see how to deal with carpenter bees.
Why Mowing Over the Nest Triggers an Attack
Most people find a ground nest at full throttle on a riding mower, and that is not bad luck — it is biology. Yellow jackets evolved with skunks, raccoons, and bears digging out their nests for the protein-rich larvae, so the colony treats ground vibration as an excavating predator. A mower deck, string trimmer, aerator, or even repeated heavy footfalls directly over the nest sends exactly that signal. Guard wasps boil out of the entrance and release alarm pheromone, which chemically recruits nestmates to the attack; and unlike a honey bee, every yellow jacket can sting repeatedly without dying.
This is why the danger curve climbs through the season. In June a nest holds a few dozen wasps and a mowing pass gets you one or two stings; by late August and September the same nest holds its maximum population, its brood is at peak value, and the colony is at its most defensive — the mass-sting incidents that put people in Canadian emergency rooms cluster exactly there. If you hit a nest with the mower: abandon the mower, walk away fast in a straight line into a building or vehicle, and do not swat — crushed wasps release more alarm pheromone. Come back for the mower after dark.
Until the nest is dead, flag a generous no-mow zone around it and tell everyone in the house. A nest you know about and avoid is a minor hazard; a nest a landscaper or visiting kid does not know about is the dangerous one.
Check current Canadian availability of the gear this guide uses:
The Dusk Treatment: Step by Step
Everything about safe DIY ground-nest treatment flows from one fact: the entire colony is only home at night. During the day, a large fraction of the workers are out foraging; spray at noon and they return over the following hours to an alarm-scented entrance with you still standing beside it. At dusk — roughly 30 to 60 minutes after sunset — every forager is inside, temperatures are dropping, and cold-blooded wasps are at their slowest. Here is the protocol:
- Scout in daylight, mark the hole. Confirm the single entrance from distance and mark the approach line with something you can find in low light — a garden stake a metre to the side, never at the hole.
- Dress for it. Long sleeves and pants with cuffs closed, closed shoes, and ideally a hat. Smooth, light-coloured fabric is harder for wasps to grip than fleece or knit.
- Light discipline. Wasps orient toward white light. Use a flashlight with a red filter, or set a light off to the side pointing at the hole rather than carrying the beam in your hand.
- Approach from downhill or cross-slope, never over the nest. Stop 2–3 metres out — inside the rated jet distance of a foam can, outside the instant-response radius.
- Soak the entrance until foam mounds over the hole. With a foaming can like the Wilson OneShot, empty a long, continuous burst directly into and around the entrance so the expanding foam pushes down into the burrow. Do not economize; the can is the cheapest part of this operation.
- Leave immediately and do not plug the hole. Walk away the moment you release the trigger. The open, treated entrance is a feature: stragglers and next-morning returnees walk through the residue and carry it inside.
- Assess at 24 and 48 hours from distance. Traffic should collapse by morning and reach near-zero within 48 hours. A trickle of confused foragers hovering at the hole is normal; a steady two-way stream means a missed chamber — repeat once at the next dusk.
- Fill the burrow after several silent days. Once the hole shows zero activity, shovel soil into it and tamp. This prevents any late-returning wasps from re-occupying and stops the burrow becoming next year’s rodent-then-wasp real estate.
Why the Top Pick Is a Foam, Not a Jet
Aerial wasp nests and ground nests are different targets, and most wasp sprays were designed for the first one. A hanging paper nest is an exposed structure you can wet from every angle; a ground nest is a chimney — the entrance hole is all you can see, and the actual nest chambers hang in a soil cavity that can extend 30 cm or more below and to the side. A thin liquid jet fired at a hole in the lawn mostly wets the rim and soaks away into soil.
The Wilson OneShot Jet Foam Wasp & Hornet Killer is our top pick precisely because foam solves that geometry. The expanding foam physically plugs and fills the entrance tunnel, pushing insecticide down toward the galleries, and it persists as a barrier that returning foragers must dig through — contact-killing them as they try. The formula pairs two pyrethroids (d-phenothrin and tetramethrin at 0.20% each, per Premier Tech’s safety data sheet) for knockdown plus kill, jets a rated 2–2.5 metres, and Wilson states the nest becomes uninhabitable within about 48 hours — a manufacturer claim, not a result we have tested, and one that assumes the foam actually reached the tunnel rather than only wetting the rim. Just as important for Canadian buyers: Health Canada’s Pesticide Product Information Database lists it as a domestic-class product under PCP registration 31899, held by Premier Tech Ltd. of Rivière-du-Loup, Quebec, in full registration and carrying hornet, wasp and yellowjacket nests as registered use sites — the last of which is what makes it the right legal fit for a ground nest. The same registration now appears on shelf as Wilson WASP OUT Jet Foam. It is stocked at Canadian hardware and garden retailers and on Amazon.ca.
One correction worth making, because American guides get it wrong for Canada: “Raid Max” here is not a long-range jet. The only Raid Max wasp product with a current Canadian registration is Raid Max Wasp & Hornet Foam Bug Killer 2 (PCP 30746, domestic class, S. C. Johnson and Son, Limited), and it is a foam that S.C. Johnson rates at roughly 2–3 metres — no more stand-off than the Wilson can. If the entrance is somewhere you truly cannot approach — on a slope above you, beside a woodpile, at the base of a hedge — the can you want is the plain Raid Wasp & Hornet Killer Spray (PCP 29776), a straight jet that S.C. Johnson’s own Canadian product page rates at 5.7 metres — roughly double the reach of either foam. It is not the only one: Premier Tech also holds a current domestic registration for Wilson OneShot Wasp & Hornet Long Shot (PCP 30192), the same d-phenothrin and tetramethrin pair as our top pick, if you would rather stay with one brand. (Some retail listings advertise “up to 7.5 m” for the same 400 g can; we quote the manufacturer’s own Canadian figure.) Use it to collapse the entrance traffic from distance, then foam the hole once things quiet down. For a full comparison of every registered can on the Canadian market, see our best wasp nest spray guide.
How the Methods Compare
| Method | Kills the colony? | Sting risk to you | Canadian legality | Price check |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jet foam at dusk Wilson OneShot | Yes — nest uninhabitable in ~48 h | Low (2–3 m stand-off, colony dormant) | PMRA domestic class — fully legal | Check price on Amazon.ca → |
| Other registered aerosol cans Raid Max foam, Raid jet, Doktor Doom | Usually — straight jets penetrate a burrow less than foam | Low — foam cans rated 2–3 m, straight-jet cans about 5.7 m | PMRA domestic class — fully legal | Check price on Amazon.ca → |
| Yellow jacket trap RESCUE! WHY | No — thins foragers only | Minimal | Registered domestic class — baited traps are pest control products; look for a PCP number | Check price on Amazon.ca → |
| Boiling water | Partial — rarely reaches deep chambers | High — you stand over the entrance | Legal — B.C.’s provincial guidance even lists it as a DIY option | — |
| Insecticidal dust Drione (Canada’s registered wasp dust) | Yes — the professional method | Low, with pro gear | Commercial class — licensed applicators only (Drione, PCP 15255) | Hire a pro |
| US dusts bought across the border Delta Dust, Sevin, Spectracide | Effective in the US — irrelevant here | Low | Not legal — Delta Dust is Canadian restricted class and registered only for prairie dog burrows; Sevin and Spectracide have no consumer registration here | Never |
| Gasoline / fuel | Unreliable | High — plus fire and vapour hazard | Illegal — environmental offence | Never |
The Boiling-Water Myth (and the Gasoline Non-Starter)
Boiling water is the internet’s favourite “chemical-free” ground-nest fix, and it deserves a fair, specific debunking. The problem is not that hot water fails to kill wasps — it kills every wasp it touches. The problem is architecture: a mature nest is a stack of paper combs suspended in an excavated cavity that can sit well below and to the side of the entrance, and a kettle — or three — of water poured down a narrow tunnel cools, disperses into soil, and rarely floods every gallery. You get a scalded outer nest, hundreds of enraged survivors, a cooked patch of lawn, and the worst part: the method requires you to stand directly over the entrance at pouring range, exactly where the defensive response erupts. Every advantage of the dusk-foam protocol — stand-off distance, residual kill, full-colony coverage — is an advantage over the kettle.
To be fair to the method, and accurate about the rules: boiling water is perfectly legal, and it is not universally condemned by officialdom either. The Province of British Columbia’s own Managing Yellow Jacket Pests page tells homeowners they can “apply pyrethrins spray or pour several gallons of boiling water into the nest,” with a warning to wear protective clothing and not scald themselves. So the case against it here is a practical one about risk and reliability, not a legal one — and note the volume that provincial advice calls for: several gallons, not a kettle.
Gasoline gets a shorter answer: never. Pouring fuel into soil is a contaminant discharge prohibited by provincial environmental law — in Ontario, section 14(1) of the Environmental Protection Act forbids discharging a contaminant into the natural environment where it causes or may cause an adverse effect, and every province has its equivalent. It permanently poisons the ground and kills the lawn in a wide ring, it creates a real fire and vapour hazard, and section 6(1) of the federal Pest Control Products Act separately prohibits using any unregistered product to control a pest. A legal, registered foam can costs less than replacing the sod gasoline destroys.
The Canadian Rulebook: Why US Advice Gets This Wrong
Search this topic and most of what you will read is American — and the standard American playbook for ground nests is a puff of insecticidal dust into the entrance: Delta Dust (deltamethrin) or Sevin (carbaryl) dust, both available in any US garden centre. That advice does not transfer across the border, and the reason is sharper than most Canadian pages admit. Search Health Canada’s Pesticide Product Information Database and the only live DeltaDust entry is DELTADUST POWDER, PCP 33495 — classed not as commercial but as restricted, the tightest tier short of cancellation, and registered for exactly one Canadian use site: black-tailed prairie dog burrows, for fleas. There is no lawful Canadian wasp-nest use of Delta Dust for anyone, homeowner or licensed applicator. Carbaryl went the same way: the domestic-class Sevin garden dusts Canadians remember were cancelled one by one (Sanex 5% in 2000, Greenleaf 5% in 2003, Later’s Sevin Garden Dust in 2009), and no domestic-class carbaryl product is registered today. The US-label Spectracide wasp cans that dominate American reviews return zero records in that same database — a can bought across the border or from a US marketplace seller is a grey-market product with no Canadian label, no PCP number, and no legal homeowner use.
The practical test takes five seconds: flip the can and look for a PCP registration number (“Reg. No. XXXXX P.C.P. Act”) — the same check Health Canada’s own wasp page tells consumers to make. Wilson (PCP 31899), Canadian-label Raid (PCP 30746 and 29776) and Doktor Doom all carry one; grey-market imports do not. This is not bureaucratic trivia — the dust technique those US sites describe genuinely is the better method for complicated nests. It is simply a different dust here: the commercial-class product a Canadian professional actually reaches for is Drione Insecticide Dust (PCP 15255, pyrethrins with piperonyl butoxide and silica aerogel), which carries wasp nests on its registered label. That is why “hire a pro” is the honest answer for the nests foam cannot solve. For the broader landscape of what is and is not on Canadian shelves, our complete Canadian wasp control guide covers every product class.
When the Nest Is Beyond DIY
A single-entrance nest in open lawn is a solved problem: foam at dusk, done. These five situations are not, and recognizing them is the difference between a $20 fix and an emergency-room trip:
- Multiple entrance holes. Foam down one hole leaves live galleries venting through the others — and tells the colony it is under attack. Multi-entrance nests need professional dusting that treats the whole cavity.
- Wasps entering a structure. Traffic disappearing under a deck, into a retaining wall, under a shed slab, or into siding means the nest is in a void, not soil. Spraying a void entrance can drive agitated wasps through interior walls into the house. This is the single most common way DIY wasp control goes badly wrong.
- Anyone in the household with a sting allergy. The treatment-gone-wrong scenario is a mass-sting event; if anaphylaxis is on the table, no can of foam is worth it.
- Late-season monster colonies. A September nest at several thousand workers, often with a visibly excavated, saucer-sized entrance, responds to disturbance on a different scale than a July nest.
- Nests you cannot cordon off. Beside a door, walkway, playset, or property line where you cannot guarantee 48 undisturbed hours after treatment.
In any of those cases, hire a local licensed structural exterminator — a single-nest wasp call is one of the cheapest jobs in the industry, and pros carry the commercial dusts, bee suits, and void-injection tools the situation actually calls for. Our Canadian pest control cost guide has current typical pricing so you know a fair quote when you hear one.
After the Nest — and Before the Next One
Yellow jacket colonies are annual: workers and the founding queen all die at first frost, and old burrows are never reused. What repeats is the habitat. In fall or early spring, walk the lawn and fill every rodent burrow and animal hole — each one is a vacant nest site for next May’s founding queens. Keep garbage and green-bin lids tight, pick up fallen fruit, and do not leave sugary drinks standing during late-summer cookouts, when protein-starved colonies switch to sugar foraging and become their peak nuisance selves.
Attractant discipline thins the draw, but it does not clear the table, and neither does a trap — both work on the yard rather than on the half-metre around your plate. The one thing that reliably keeps late-August yellow jackets off food is mesh between them and it, and screening for wasps is the easy case: a wasp is far too big to pass through any insect netting, so you do not need the fine no-see-um weave that midges force on you. A pop-up screen house over the patio table is the usual answer — our screen tent and screen house guide compares the sizes and frame types that stand up to a Canadian summer. If the deck or porch already has a roof over it, you do not need a freestanding shelter at all; hanging mesh curtains off the structure you already own is the cheaper route, and our screened porch kit guide walks through the track hardware, the door count, and what those packages actually run in Canada.
The one genuinely high-leverage trick: hang a yellow jacket trap in late April to mid-May. Every yellow jacket flying in spring is a mated queen scouting nest sites — each one you catch is an entire summer colony that never happens. Our best yellow jacket trap guide covers spring-queen trapping in detail, and the broader wasp trap roundup compares every trap style sold in Canada.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I get rid of ground wasps in Canada?+
Confirm the nest entrance in daylight (a steady stream of yellow jackets in and out of one hole), then treat at dusk or dawn when the whole colony is home and sluggish. Stand 2–3 metres back, soak the entrance with a PMRA-registered jet foam or jet spray like Wilson OneShot Jet Foam or a Canadian Raid wasp and hornet formula, then leave immediately without blocking the hole. Check from a distance after 24–48 hours; if traffic continues, re-treat once at dusk. If the nest has multiple entrances, sits against a foundation, or is feeding into a wall void, stop and hire a licensed local exterminator instead.
What kind of wasps nest in the ground in Canada?+
Almost always yellow jackets — mainly the eastern yellowjacket (Vespula maculifrons) and the common yellowjacket (Vespula vulgaris), which take over abandoned rodent burrows and expand them into paper nests holding hundreds to several thousand workers by late August. Not everything flying out of a lawn hole is a yellow jacket, though: solitary digger wasps, cicada killers, and fuzzy ground-nesting bees also use soil burrows, but they live one insect per hole, rarely sting, and are useful pollinators or predators. One busy hole with constant two-way traffic of sleek black-and-yellow wasps means yellow jackets; scattered individual holes across dry soil usually mean harmless solitary species you can leave alone.
When is the best time of day to treat a ground wasp nest?+
At dusk, roughly 30–60 minutes after sunset, or at dawn before the day warms up. Two reasons: the entire colony — including the thousands of foragers that are away all day — is inside the nest, and cool overnight temperatures make yellow jackets slow to launch a defence. Treating a ground nest at midday kills the few wasps at home while hundreds of foragers return over the next hours to an alarm-scented entrance, which is exactly how people get swarmed. Use a flashlight with a red filter or hold the light off to one side, since wasps orient toward white light beams.
Does boiling water kill a ground wasp nest?+
Sometimes partially, and it is the most dangerous popular DIY method. A mature yellow jacket nest is a multi-storey paper structure that can sit 30 cm or more below the entrance hole with side galleries — a kettle of boiling water rarely reaches every chamber, so you scald the outer combs, enrage the survivors, and stand directly over the entrance holding an empty kettle when they boil out. It also cooks a patch of your lawn. Compared with a registered jet foam applied from 2–3 metres away at dusk, boiling water offers a worse kill rate at far higher personal risk. It is not banned, and it is not universally condemned either — the Province of British Columbia’s own "Managing Yellow Jacket Pests" page lists pouring several gallons of boiling water into an underground nest as a do-it-yourself option, with a warning to wear protective clothing and not scald yourself. The objection here is practical, not legal: a registered foam does the same job from stand-off distance.
Why do wasps attack when I mow the lawn over their nest?+
Vibration. Yellow jackets react to ground-borne vibration as a burrowing-predator attack — in nature that is a skunk or raccoon digging out the nest — so a mower, string trimmer, or even heavy footsteps directly over the nest triggers a mass defensive response. Guard wasps release alarm pheromone at the entrance, which recruits nestmates, and unlike honey bees each yellow jacket can sting repeatedly. Most multi-sting incidents in Canadian backyards happen exactly this way in August and September, when colonies peak at their largest and most defensive. If you hit a nest while mowing, walk away fast in a straight line — do not swat, and do not stand still to look for the hole.
Can I just plug the hole of a ground wasp nest?+
No — plugging an untreated nest is one of the classic ways to make the problem worse. Trapped yellow jackets dig; a colony sealed into its burrow will excavate new exits, and if the nest sits near a foundation, deck footing, or walkway, the new exit can emerge somewhere far worse, including inside a wall void or a basement. The same rule applies right after spraying: leave the entrance open so returning foragers walk through the treated soil and carry residue into the nest. Only once the nest has shown zero traffic for several days is it safe to fill the burrow with soil.
Is it legal to pour gasoline down a wasp nest in Canada?+
No — do not do it. Pouring gasoline or other fuel into soil is a contaminant discharge prohibited by provincial environmental law: in Ontario, section 14(1) of the Environmental Protection Act bars discharging a contaminant into the natural environment where it causes or may cause an adverse effect, and every province has an equivalent. It contaminates soil and groundwater, kills the surrounding lawn permanently, and creates a genuine fire and vapour hazard next to your house. It is also not even reliable at killing the colony. Federal law is the second problem: section 6(1) of the Pest Control Products Act prohibits using a pest control product that is not registered, and section 6(5) prohibits using a registered one in a way inconsistent with its label. In practice that means homeowner wasp control in Canada runs on PMRA-registered domestic-class products applied per label — and provinces can layer further restrictions on top. A registered jet foam can costs less than the patch of sod gasoline destroys.
What is the best spray for ground wasps in Canada?+
A foaming jet formula is the best match for a nest in the ground, because the foam expands into the burrow entrance and keeps killing wasps that walk through it, where a thin liquid jet mostly wets the entrance rim. Our top pick is Wilson OneShot Jet Foam Wasp & Hornet Killer — a Canadian, PMRA-registered product (d-phenothrin and tetramethrin, 0.20% each) that jets roughly 2–2.5 metres and, per Wilson, makes the nest uninhabitable within about 48 hours. It is registered with Health Canada under PCP number 31899, in newer packaging as Wilson WASP OUT Jet Foam, with yellowjacket nests named on its label as a registered use site. Note that "Raid Max" on the Canadian market is also a foam — Raid Max Wasp & Hornet Foam Bug Killer 2, PCP 30746 — rated by S.C. Johnson at only about 2–3 metres. If you genuinely need stand-off distance, the long-reach Canadian can is the plain Raid Wasp & Hornet Killer Spray, registered as Raid Wasp & Hornet Bug Killer 7 under PCP 29776, which the S.C. Johnson product page for Canada rates at 5.7 metres. Whatever you buy, check the can for a PCP registration number — Health Canada's own wasp guidance tells you to look for exactly that.
Can I use Delta Dust or Sevin dust on a ground nest like American websites say?+
No — and the real Canadian position is stricter than most sites say. The classic US advice for ground nests is to puff deltamethrin dust (Delta Dust) or carbaryl dust (Sevin) into the entrance. Neither transfers here. In Health Canada's Pesticide Product Information Database, the only current DeltaDust registration is DELTADUST POWDER, PCP 33495 — and it is a RESTRICTED-class product (a tighter category than commercial) whose sole registered Canadian use site is black-tailed prairie dog burrows, for fleas. Delta Dust is therefore not a legal wasp-nest treatment in Canada for anyone, homeowner or licensed applicator. Carbaryl went the same way: every domestic-class Sevin garden dust has been cancelled (Sanex 5% in 2000, Greenleaf 5% in 2003, Later's Sevin Garden Dust in 2009), and no domestic carbaryl product remains registered. Cross-border cans of Spectracide or US-label Sevin are grey-market — Spectracide has no Canadian registration at all — and section 6(1) of the Pest Control Products Act prohibits possessing or using an unregistered product. The dust technique itself is sound, and Canadian professionals do use a registered dust for wasp nests: Drione Insecticide Dust, PCP 15255, a commercial-class product that names wasp nests on its label. That is the argument for hiring a licensed applicator when a nest calls for dusting — not for importing an American can.
How long after spraying does it take for a ground nest to die?+
Contact-killed wasps drop within seconds to minutes, but colony-level death takes longer because foragers away from the nest keep returning for a day or two. A foam treatment applied at dusk typically shows dramatically reduced traffic by the next morning and near-zero traffic within 48 hours — Wilson states that its foam makes the nest uninhabitable within 48 hours. That is the manufacturer's own claim for the product; we have not run controlled tests on it. Watch from a window or from several metres away; if you still see a steady two-way stream after two days, the foam missed a chamber or a second entrance, and the nest needs one repeat treatment at the next dusk — or a professional if traffic persists after that.
When should I call a professional instead of treating a ground nest myself?+
Five situations take DIY off the table: the nest has more than one entrance hole (foam through one hole leaves live galleries behind the others); wasps are entering a wall void, deck, shed foundation, or retaining wall rather than open lawn; anyone in the household has a known or suspected sting allergy; the colony is a large late-season one — September nests can hold several thousand workers; or the nest sits beside a walkway, playset, or door you cannot cordon off for 48 hours. A licensed exterminator has commercial-class dusts, protective gear, and the experience to find every entrance. Typical Canadian pricing for a single wasp nest treatment is modest — see our Canadian pest control cost guide for current ranges.
Do ground wasp nests come back in the same spot next year?+
No — yellow jacket colonies are strictly annual in Canada. Every worker and the old queen die with the first hard frosts; only newly mated queens survive, and they overwinter alone under bark or siding, then start brand-new nests from scratch each spring. Old burrows are not reused. What does repeat is the habitat: a lawn with abandoned rodent burrows, open compost, fallen fruit, and sugary garbage will attract a new founding queen next May. Fill old burrows and animal holes in fall or early spring, keep bins sealed, and hang a yellow jacket trap in late April to early May, when catching a single foraging queen removes the thousands of workers she would have produced.
Are ground wasps good for anything, or should every nest be destroyed?+
Yellow jackets are genuinely useful predators — a single colony consumes enormous numbers of caterpillars, grubs, and flies over a summer, which is free pest control for your garden. The honest rule: destroy nests that create a real sting hazard (in the lawn you mow, beside doors, patios, play areas, or anywhere near an allergic household member) and leave nests in the back corner of a property, in the bush line, or in unused ground alone — they die on their own at first frost. Solitary ground-nesting bees and digger wasps, which make scattered individual holes and almost never sting, should be left alone entirely.
Related Wasp Guides
- Best Wasp Nest Spray Canada — Every PMRA-Registered Can Compared
- How to Get Rid of Wasps in Canada — The Complete Playbook
- Best Yellow Jacket Trap Canada — Including Spring Queen Trapping
- Best Wasp Trap Canada — Every Trap Style Compared
- RESCUE! WHY Trap Review — Does It Actually Work in Canada?
- Pest Control Cost Canada — What Professionals Charge